I’ve now made four pairs of the Ralph Pink Coco trousers, and I think I’ve finally got them pretty right. My biggest issue with them was the back, so you’re going to see a few shots of my backview.
I wore my previous version to my patternmaking class at Workspace Fashion and Design School and I could tell immediately that Sarah did not approve. I posted about them here, but here are a couple of photos to remind you of what they looked like
The front view is pretty good, but the back has the usual wrinkles and drag lines that I associate with trousers. These trousers have now been disposed of.
Sarah and I laid my trouser block on top of the pattern and found that the fronts were almost identical, but the back had a couple of important differences. The pattern on the top in the photo below is the Coco Trouser and the one underneath is my trouser block.
What is obvious is the crotch curve is quite different. Sarah explained that because my waist to hip ratio is smaller than a standard pattern block (in other words, my waist is bigger and my hips are smaller), most patterns are too slanted at the centre back seam, which has the effect of creating drag lines further down. By adding fabric at the top of the back and then reducing it on the side seam, I eliminate this problem.
By the time I got round to taking this photo I had already shaved a bit off the hip to match that side of my trouser block pattern, but I thought the difference in the crotch curve was worth sharing.
Although I still look like I have a bit of a crease under my backside, I don’t think I could reduce the fabric any more as I wouldn’t be able to sit down.
I have also worn these trousers a few times, so I suspect that the fabric has bagged out a bit.
The only other thing I didn’t like about this pattern was the side zip. I always find that I get caught in the zip, and have to wrangle my top out of the way when I’m operating said zip. This was an easy fix – I simply moved it to the centre back and it’s so, so much better!
These are the best fitting pair of trousers I own, apart from the others made from my block.
I have decided that high waisted trousers only look good with cropped tops, so I teamed these with my red Miette cardigan, which proved perfect for the cooler spell that we had.
I have also worn them with my self drafted red tee shirt and a belt which I bought back in the 1980s. I included this last photo because it does show that lovely pocket detail.
Flushed with success, I have now applied my jeans block to my Jamie Jeans and they are a much better fit, but I am about to make another pair with a few extra tweaks.
Fantastic pants Sue! Absolutely looks great! You’ve got the fit perfected. Love them with the flats, but it’s always amazing what heels do to the entire silhouette when wearing trousers. 🙂
Thank you Lisa. Yes, I agree re the shoes. I actually haven’t found the perfect shoes for these trousers yet – I suspect they will fall between the two.
What a great pair of trousers!
Thank you Tia, I’m rather pleased!
The fit in these is spot on! The only wrinkles I can see here are the result of absolutely necessary sitting ease, so no true wrinkles. You made yourself a fantastic pair of trousers 🙌
Thank you Kalimak, you are too kind!
Fabulous.
I’m busy trying to do the same. Well I have a different shape but fitting anyway! I love the pocket. I might consider the pattern for the pocket detail.
The pocket is lovely but they aren’t big pocket bags. Fitting our shape is an interesting exercise. Patterns are not designed for my shape at all!
Another success with some great looking pants. The fit and how you have styled them is fabulous.
Thank you Christine, I appreciate the comment!
They’re a really good fit. I thought your analysis of why they weren’t right before was very interesting. Trouser fit is something I’ve considered long and hard.
I don’t make or buy smart trousers because there is always a twist in one leg. I know why it happens but I think it would take a Saville Row tailor to get it sorted. Lucky I like skirts
Thank you Norma, I’m now battling with jeans fitting. Skirts are so much easier!!
These are looking very good but would love to see a back view with the heels on as there is too much fabric with the flat and it is distorting the fabric and they look fabulous from the front with the heels.
The problem I have noticed with jeans/pants is that the hem needs to suit the shoes, I have found that it is very hard to get the line I like trying to get them to work with heels and flats.
I agree re the length. I turned them up for a particular pair of shoes which I now can’t find (how embarrassing!) I did have a back view photo with the heels, I must have taken it out.
This is vey beautiful pair of trousers. This pair suits you well and all the combinations with the tops are so stylish. Well done Sue.
The trousers look fabulous and particularly elegant with the heels. The first photo showed the back with heels. I love the look with the cropped top.
Beautifully fitted trousers Sue and a very elegant outfit indeed. I love them worn with the heels and your short top/cardigan provides the perfect proportions. You must be very pleased with these.
I’ve suddenly become obsessed with crop tops to go with my high waisted trousers! It is such a nice combination.
Your trousers are so elegant and timeless and you have nailed the fit. How interesting! Such a beautiful outfit with the colourful top!
Thank you! I need more of these trousers.
They’re a great looking pair of trousers. Very classic, and I really like them with the red tops. Thanks for the info re the back and crotch fitting. It confirms something I’ve been thinking.
Fitting trousers is such a nightmare, but this information made such sense to me.
The fit is perfect! There are so many different ways to pull a bit here and pinch a bit there. It’s a wonder we ever get the job done! I love the colour combination – adding the red. Just lovely!
Thanks Linda, I am quite partial to red and brown. Might need to use the combination more often!
I wear it often, I get so tired of black sometimes.
I have similar problems with the back as you do. I look forward to using this information. Thank you.
I’m glad it was useful. 🙂
Those look great! The fit is great too and I think red looks awesome with those pants!
Thank you Katharina, red and brown is such a winning combination, I always think.
Perfect fit, amazing styling (especially with your little red cardigan), great shots! These high waisted pants do look fantastic on your flat tummy and they make your legs look infinitely long! Great fitting job.
Thanks Hélène, I am suddenly a fan of high waisted trousers!
Looking really good now – and I love the brown/red combination 😃
Thanks Kim, I love brown and red too!
really like the trousers! I like the idea of having the zip at the back
It’s much better than the side, Kena!
Very interesting. I have same issue (large waist to hip + large thighs from cycling), but I couldn’t quite see from the pattern laid over your block what the differences between them were. Do any of your other posts discuss fitting your pant block?
I think I have some others. I shall have a trawl and let you know. I don’t have thighs but think the big issue is the waist to hip ratio.
Thanks. I think I’ve got the thigh adjustment sorted. Its how to correctly adjust for large waist to hip ration I’m pretty sure from your discussion that I haven’t.
I do a bit of a discussion here https://fadanista.com/2017/05/29/jamie-jeans/. I will see if I’ve done more!
Thanks for the link, it has clarified your photos. Comparing the two posts it is clear I need to straighten the back seam as you have done in this post, but, as I discovered in a Craftsy trouser fitting class, I have to do pretty much the opposite of what you did in the thigh in the other post.
Lol! I was bullied at school about my lack of thighs!!
:-l Not nice at the time, but clearly trivial now. I was bullied because I wouldn’t do things I thought were boring just to fit in.
One of the things I like about the sewing blogs is that they are all about fitting the body you have, not what your body ‘should’ be 🙂
These are beautifully fitted, and the fabric does it justice! I’m considering making these up, and as a beginner, I figured I might have fewer fit issues with this looser style, but I may run into similar problems having a large waist – narrow hip ratio as you mentioned.
I love these trousers, but I did do some refitting as I have a bit of a crotch oddity!