When the latest Papercut patterns were released I bought a couple and loved the Sapporo coat. It has a lovely cocoon shape and the most interesting integrated angled pockets. Look at those style lines!
I have noticed that Papercut patterns run rather large, so was quite happy when Sara from Workspace Fashion and Design School suggested we make it together to ensure a good fit and perhaps make a few modifications – I love her design modifications!
One of the features that neither of us really liked was the sleeves. In the photographs of the coat they seem to stick up at the seamline. The pattern was redrafted to make the sleeves integral to the bodice. We also drafted a sleeve facing from the fashion fabric and lining for the rest of the sleeve instead of having doubled fabric in the sleeve, which would make it excessively bulky. Having done the drafting I produced some lovely silk and rayon quilted velvet that I bought in the Morrison sale. I bought 2.5metres which seemed like plenty, but guess what? Yep, I didn’t have enough due to the narrow width of the fabric and of course, the nap, so no topping and tailing. My integrated sleeve had to be abandoned, and the sleeve is pieced, but this fabric hides the joins so well that it’s hard to remember that I had to do this. I kept the sleeve facing we drafted and everything else is as per the pattern.
The coat is lined with some black silk/cotton mix also from the Morrison sale and this coat feels just so luxe and elegant. The velvet is quite a dark grey, but when I look down it looks quite silver.
The coat’s first outing was to the Perth Sewcial Soirée which is, naturally, attended by Perth’s finest sewists and therefore I needed something which wouldn’t let the side down. I spent so much time focusing on the coat that I hadn’t really thought about what else I was going to wear. I finished up teaming it with some silk wide-legged trousers which I made a while back using McCalls 5512 which is a 1970s pattern.
I also wore a silk top which I finished up pulling out of a refashioning drawer. It’s much too big for me and now it’s out of the drawer, I plan on remaking it.
Back to the coat; due to the nature of the velvet, none of the edges are sharp and I love the fluidity this brings to the coat.
I really like this for an evening coat, and I suspect that it will get a lot of wear.
My review of this pattern:
Pattern Description: This coat has a dramatic cocoon silhouette and angled seaming. It can be made from a lightweight fabric for a spring/summer version or wool for cooler weather. It is fully lined and features cropped sleeves, tapered cuff and pockets hidden in the front seams.
Pattern Sizing:XXS – XL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, similar.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the style lines. I am not so fond of the amount of fabric under the arms and the bulky sleeves. One of the issues with Papercut patterns is that they all run large. I had to go down two sizes.
Fabric Used: silk velvet
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Instead of doubling the sleeves, I used a sleeve facing and brought the lining to the facing, which reduced the bulk in the sleeves. My sleeves finished up wrist length rather than being cropped.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, and yes.
Conclusion: It is worth doing a toile with this pattern to check fit.