I was one of the testers for the Lisa Bias Skirt, which is the latest offering from Pattern Union, and I have to say that it’s one of the nicest skirts I own.
It is described as follows:
The midi-length Lisa Bias Skirt is a game-changer in bias sewing and fitting! There are no side seams, so the skirt won’t wave over the hips, creating a flattering drape for all body shapes. There are four versions: basic, basic with splits, single side button, and double button vents. The skirt can be made in most fabrics, including knits, to change to the vibe and style. Sizes 6 – 26
Bias skirts, by their nature, are body skimming and drapey and because of the way they are designed, they nearly always wave where zips are inserted, or, as in the description, over the hips. Because there are no back or side seams and no zip, there are no opportunities for it to sit badly.
Although the pattern is for a midi length, it could easily be extended to a maxi length, or as in my case, cut down to a knee length skirt. I don’t have the legs for midi-length skirts!
I made my first one from some rather stiff cotton that I bought from Crossgrain Fabrics to make Mark a shirt. He has mentioned this fact, and I’m a bit surprised he remembered! I’m sure it will soften with washing, but it’s still perfect for the skirt, although mine doesn’t look like it’s cut on the bias, it looks more like an A-line skirt. I expect this to change as the fabric relaxes.
There are four styles and I made the single vent with rouleau loops and buttons. Wearing it above with a long sleeve Eva Tee from Pattern Union and below with a sleeveless Eva Tee. This skirt looks great with white!
My skirt used eleven buttons and I found exactly eleven of these gorgeous vintage buttons in my stash. The rouleau loops are made from a very fine, soft rayon which tones beautifully with the skirt.
I also did the version with the elastic waistband. I bought this elastic in Hong Kong several years ago and I’m so pleased to have used it.
I teamed the skirt with my new recycled denim sandals, which I’m happy to report are extremely comfortable.
I made a second one, of course, and this one is the same view but made from some Ponte from Knitwit Fabrics. This is left over from my StyleArc Estelle Ponte Jacket and I found some dark brown to use as contrast in the vent. Unfortunately the brown is wool Ponte so it’s a bit heavier and definitely springier. never mind, it still worked, with a bit of extra hand stitching to hold it flat.
As it’s a knit it didn’t need to be cut on the bias, so I was able to use an extremely small piece of fabric. I went down a size to accommodate the stretch of the Ponte but found that the skirt was still too big, so took it completely apart and made it smaller.
I again used the elastic waistband (these skirts are great for using all my fancy elastic!), and some covered buttons that Mark found in a tin in a skip. They belonged to an elderly neighbour and her children threw them out. The buttons are covered in the most amazing cotton velvet fabric and they are perfect.
There was no way that I was going to be able to make rouleau loops from the Ponte so I found some brown vintage cotton bias binding in my stash and made them from that instead. Worked like a charm!
Whilst the testing process was happening, Sarah did a pattern amendment to create a sway back adjustment and, although I’ve never done one on a skirt before, it really made a difference to the way the skirt sat at the back, and it was easy to do as I already had the skirt pulled apart.
I’ve always avoided bias skirts as the fit is usually a bit dodgy on me, but this one sits perfectly. This is such a comfortable skirt and I can’t wait to wear it in the winter with woolly tights and boots.
I love the fact that there are several options with the skirt and I’ll definitely be making more, perhaps with the slits and I can definitely see a maxi version in my wardrobe if I can find a piece of fabric big enough.
In terms of the sewing, this was a pretty quick make. The first one came together in a morning, but the Ponte one took longer as I had to basically make it twice, and the unpicking was a bit of a nightmare due to my perfectly matching thread. It should be noted that the hip measurement is the one that should be chosen for the size. This makes a significant difference, particularly if, like me, your hips fall into a smaller size bracket than your waist. I went down two whole sizes on the cotton skirt and three for the Ponte one and then had to reduce it a bit more.
This pattern is currently on sale and the skirt would be a lovely addition to a spring or autumn wardrobe. I can thoroughly recommend it, it’s beautifully drafted and easy to make. Check out the reviewers comments on the Pattern Union website.