I think everyone has heard of/seen/made the Lander pants by True Bias, and I’ve had the pattern assembled, traced and hanging around my sewing space for weeks while I admired those made by all the other sewists out there. Then Megan from Meggipeg gave me this rather lovely black wool blend fabric and I instantly knew what they were destined to become; yes, you guessed it – Landers!
I decided that I was going to be a bit smarter with this pattern and check it against my wide leg trouser block, which I had just used for this pair of trousers. Ignore all the changes on the block – I really need to trace a new, clean version but I truly hate tracing.
This is the back view. I pinned out the darts on both pattern pieces and laid my block on top of the pattern piece and it’s pretty clear why OOP trousers don’t fit me. I cut this huge wedge out of the crotch.
The front is closer to correct, but I was horrified to see how wide these trousers were at the sides, particularly at my hips. I reworked the sides, tapering them back out below the hips. 
Now anyone who has made these trousers will know that they are wide on the sides for a reason. I didn’t realise that the side seam allowance is 2.5cm so I gaily chopped it off to my usual 1cm. Can I say now that it didn’t end well! Luckily I was able to crib a bit of width by reducing the side seams to .5cms and letting out the centre back seam by .5cm. They fit, but only just! The extra wide side seams allow for quite a bit of adjustment and so I shall add them back in for the next pair.
It’s really hard to show these trousers because they’re black, but I think you can see that the back fits really well, with none of that strange bubbling I usually get on my inner thighs.
It’s really difficult to see anything from the front, but here they are anyway.
I wore them with a new Lotta Jansdotter Esme top made from some winter white pure wool that I got from a garage sale, and which cost nothing. I think it’s really for upholstery or something, it’s heavy and not drapey, but it’s warm. I managed to use the frayed selvedge and manually frayed the sleeve cuffs. I split the bottom hem and added my white curly scarf as it goes so well. It’s not my favourite top but has proven to be quite useful when the temperatures plummet – by Perth standards anyway!
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In spite of all my difficulties with these trousers I do like them a lot. I wasn’t sure how I would go with the button fly, but it’s fine. I do want to point out that my button game was strong; how well do the buttons go with this fabric? They came from a Morrison (local designer) sale and aren’t from the same fabric, but you’d never know. I bought a bag of these buttons in a couple of colours and I’ve used them on several things already.
These are my first, but definitely not my last pair of Landers. I am considering making them again from a slight stretch fabric, which would solve all my difficulties, although I do need to face facts and just retrace the pattern with the added seam allowance. I will get back to you on this.
The pants are of course amazing— the detail! And I LOVE the top!
Do you have any rough idea of how many pairs of pants you have made?
Oh my goodness, no! Hundreds over the years? I must have forty pairs sitting in my cupboards, when I take into account summer, winter and in between. Too many according to my husband!
Well, he’s just wrong!
I was really dubious about that top but I think it’s a handy thing to throw on over other things. I love winter white, it’s so useful.
So glad you finally made and love your Landers. For Raphaëlle and I, the fit was spot on right from the start – almost a miracle! Love your new Esme top too – what a brilliant idea this fringed border!
I so envy you being able to make pants as designed. The shorts pattern is different again and I really wanted to make them but I think I shall revert to a tried and true pattern!
love the pants, but that blouse is amazing, love how you did the bottom and cuffs !
I can’t go past an opportunity to fray an edge – especially if it means I don’t have to hem! Thank you Naomi.
Just a question: When is a landers not a landers? If we buy a pattern and then adjust it until it is our pattern block, why not just make the block pants without the trouble of another “pattern?” What is the point? It is especially odd, when at the end we evaluate the “pattern” and say it’s good, when in fact it isn’t the pattern we evaluate, but the accuracy of our block, with the pattern details included. Yours look gorgeous. But that, I’m pretty certain, is because of your skill with your block and your ability to adjust any pattern to your preferences and size. It’s an odd question, but valid, I think. And with pants, the pattern evaluation simply comes down to whether the designer made it for my ‘behind’ or not.
You raise such a good point Bette. I guees I have used all the style lines of the Landers, but I have, in the past, taken them and applied them to my block and I could have done that here, but then feel a bit as though I am taking that designer’s ideas. It is also easier for me to use all the other pattern pieces such as the fly etc. No pants pattern fits me straight up, I always have to amend the crotch curve so therefore I should probably never buy a trouser pattern. Perhaps I should save my money! I didn’t really do a review of the pattern because I made such radical changes at the sides and at the crotch, but I do like the style lines.
It’s not an odd question at all, and you’re certainly making me consider my pants making future.
I’ve taken a bit of thinking time now, and wonder that if I use all the design features that I shouldn’t give the designer credit, so I feel fairly comfortable with this. Most of us have to tweak patterns, in terms of doing FBAs, raising and lowering length etc, so I think it’s fair to say that these are Landers pants with a major crotch adjustment. Thank you for your thought provoking comment though Bette, I really enjoyed thinking all this through.
You are definltely getting a better fit than RTW and I hope to have a pants block soon.
They look really good Sue. The fit looks fine. You would never know you had seam issues.
You know, as you already know that your pants block fits….you could easily have copied those pockets from the Landers and added a few buttons down the front for a total lookey, likey pair 🙂
I know I could just copy the design lines, and I sometimes do. I am mildly aware of the IP issues of straight out copying a design, although I do it all the time with things I see in shops!
Oh gosh yes, I wouldnt dream of passing them of as the actual pants….yet I copy RTW a lot too. 😊
I know you didn’t mean that I copy them, I’m now not sure what I was saying there! Probably trying to justify why I had yet another pattern, when I already have far too many!
Using new patterns is always a bit of a gamble. Luckily you’ve managed to ‘save’ the Lander pants. Your new white sweater is a real beauty.
Thanks Sonja, I rather like this combination of black and cream!
I live the outfit and those pants. I had my eyes on this pattern for a while moe, I should just go ahead and buy it. Thank you for the 2.5cm seam allowances warning, that is good to know!
These trousers would look good on you!